Edison case finishes

[Tom]

I am working to restore a Triumph I think model D, 2 & 4 min large carrier. Trying to establish what Edison co used as a finish. My instinct is Shellac but what was the application. As volume production was important I am leaning to a spray which would be quick and easy. Or was it a simple brush coat, or maybe a synthetic varnish which became available about this time.

I know the late Opera had a French Polish finish… Info is probably more available to you in USA than in UK…

Any info would be welcome..Thanks, Tom

[soundofmusic]

Hi, I wondered if you had received info back on your question? I have an Edison Fireside with a decent stain that I want to put something on to protect it. It is getting some dust and may be drying out a bit. I am trying to find some information on basic care for these. Some say a beeswax, some say a varnish. I just don't want to try something and mess it up. The other question I had is can I apply this over the Edison logo that is painted directly on the case? Or do we just get close and go around the logo?

[phonogfp]

The original finish used on early Edison Cylinder Phonographs was shellac.

 

As for the Fireside, the condition of the decal is such that a high-quality replacement is warranted.  I'd recommend Gregg Cline's decals:

 

https://www.phonodecal.com/shop/phonograph-decals

 

You'll want the "Edison Script for Cabinet," which is about 1/3 down in the right-hand column.

 

If you truly don't want to replace the original decal for some reason, I wouldn't apply a finish to the cabinet.  Someone has already removed much of the original finish except for around the decal, so applying an additional finish will not yield good results.

 

George P.

[soundofmusic]

Thank you so much George. I really appreciate the information. I will go on and order the decal just so I have it. Refinishing the case is a bigger deal I will need to research further.

[phonogfp]

You're very welcome. 

 

If that Fireside were mine, I'd use lacquer thinner on the cabinet to clean it, and to (hopefully) remove the remnants of the finish and decal on the front. 

 

If that didn't work, I'd use the commonly-found Kwik-Strip obtainable at places like Wal-Mart.  Just brush it on, let it sit for about 5 minutes and wipe it off.  It won't remove the stain unless you let it sit for a looong time.  Clean the cabinet afterward with mineral spirits, let it dry out overnight, and apply ORANGE shellac.  (Some like to use a brush, others like to apply it with a wadded rag.)  Let dry/cure for the recommended time, LIGHTLY sand with very fine grit sandpaper and a block, clean with tack cloth, and apply the decal (use micro-sol and micro-set as recommended in Gregg's instructions:  https://www.phonodecal.com/blog/how-to-apply-decals ).  Let the decal dry thoroughly, and apply another coat of shellac.  Repeat LIGHT sanding, tack cloth, and a third coat of shellac.  That should do it, although I like to use 0000 steel wool very lightly on the cured final coat to cut the sheen slightly so it's more mellow. 

 

This is all much easier than it sounds, and once you do it, you'll have the confidence and skill to tackle another project sometime.  And remember that if something goes wrong, all you need to do is apply stripper, clean it with mineral spirits, and start over again!

 

George P.

[soundofmusic]

I am grateful for this information. I shall try my hand and see how it goes! Much appreciated! Jason

[CurtA]

George's info is right on about using Bullseye Orange/Amber shellac.  It is easy to work with and provides a period look.  I use an old (clean) rag to apply it.  One point to remember: apply it evenly as possible on the first pass,  if it needs additional coats - wait until the first coat is completely dry (24 hrs or more) before applying a second coat or going over areas that have been previously covered and slightly tacky.  If you go over it or apply the second coat too soon, it will re-melt the first coat and potentially mess it up (I learned that from experience).  Use #0000 steel wool between coats and wipe off any wool dust before applying the next coat - you can do as many additional coats as desired.

 

Another wipe on finish that works well is Tung Oil.  The only caveat is that it does not impart the amber color.  It is easy to do:  wipe it on with a clean cloth, then wipe off the excess and once it has dried go over it wit #0000 steel wool and apply the next coat.  This is used extensively on gun stocks and as an over coat on original antique furniture finishes.