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Decal finish


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I almost feel foolish posting this here for such a seasoned bunch of collectors but someone might get some use out of it. I recently acquired a totally roached, rusted, and filthy Edison Standard Model B, originally for parts but I decided to restore because the challenge was great and I love a Herculean task. The case required stripping, so once that was done, sanded, stained, and finish applied (3 coats of clear spray l like the look), I ordered the decal from Greg Cline. The first picture shows the decal applied. It is tight to the wood but shiny. The second image shows the same decal after a final coat of the spray lacquer. The shine is gone and the decal looks like it belongs there. The final coat of finish seals the decal in place and makes it form to the wood even better. I apologize for the difference in lighting temperature but you get the idea.

 

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Amber shellac also works well as a finish coat since it tones down the gold of the decal and gives it a more 'vintage' appearance.

 

 

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Where does one buy this amber shellac? Does it come in cans? Quarts? Gallons? More information please. I think I could use it on one or two of my decals. Neil

 

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On 10/16/2021 at 9:43 AM, Neilvanstem said:

Where does one buy this amber shellac? Does it come in cans? Quarts? Gallons? More information please. I think I could use it on one or two of my decals. Neil

 

Neil,

I buy it in a spray can for ease and smoothness of application.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Bullseye "Amber"/orange shellac is only available in 1 quart cans, not spray cans.  Regular clear shellac is available in spray cans and is not the same thing.  I buy it at Lowes or Home Depot.  It's easy to apply with a clean, lint free cloth (old tee shirts work great).  I don't use a brush, to avoid brush marks and never go over it to touch up or for a second coat until it dries completely or you risk screwing up your finish.  Between coats use #0000 steel wool to smooth the finish and wipe it off with a clean cloth before applying an additional coat.

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  • 1 year later...
On 11/28/2021 at 11:07 AM, CurtA said:

Bullseye "Amber"/orange shellac is only available in 1 quart cans, not spray cans.  Regular clear shellac is available in spray cans and is not the same thing.  I buy it at Lowes or Home Depot.  It's easy to apply with a clean, lint free cloth (old tee shirts work great).  I don't use a brush, to avoid brush marks and never go over it to touch up or for a second coat until it dries completely or you risk screwing up your finish.  Between coats use #0000 steel wool to smooth the finish and wipe it off with a clean cloth before applying an additional coat.

 

Curt, I definitely agree with you on the use of a clean, lint-free rag for application as opposed to a brush. Much easier to apply properly and much better results. I work in hardware and have suggested this method to people and folks look at me like I'm nuts (Including my boss) 😂. Once I show pictures of the results though, they change their mind.

 

Unfortunately, Shellac prices keep going up, and less small stores have been carrying it because of the shelf-life (my boss special-orders it for me). Worse yet is finding hide glue, even in liquid form. They've completely dropped it from our store's supplier catalogues these days.

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I totally understand where you're coming from, regarding people's reactions...  I get the same thing when I suggest this method, along with several others.

 

Some people are so set in tradition that they don't like alternatives, even though they admire the results and ask how you accomplished it...

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have also used Bulls Eye amber shellac over decals, but I use Micro Sol first and I wait 24 hours before applying the shellac.  I use a wide artist’s brush and I place the can into hot water to make the shellac flow better.

 

Here are two recent back brackets.  The first decal set is from Greg Cline and the other is from Eduardo in Peru.  I like both.  Eduardo’s were easier to apply, but I prefer Greg’s visually.

 

 

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Edited by Django
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