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PHEW! Thank Goodness...I think TMF doesn't have much time left. Oh well it was good while it lasted...

Bravo!!! Very nicely done once again Dan. You must put hours into these. They are all top rate!

You’re not the only one unable to log onto the TMF. Maybe it’s the “Beginning Of The End” for the TMF. Anyhow I do believe yours is an early 102. The metal wood grain motor board and what looks like early complicated stop mechanism are sure give aways. Let us know when you get it. I’ve an early one too. Somewhere in this mess.🙈

Well for some reason, I cannot log into TMF (it just takes me to the front page again when I click "login") so I decided to post about it here This HMV model has been on my Most Wanted list for a good long while, so I jumped for this one when I saw it on ebay! Apparently I'm told this is a first generation model? I won't know until I actually get it.

Thanks Jerry for the photo, yes I borrowed that picture from EBay Dan

Maybe the images here will help some? https://www.ebay.com/itm/402365744269?msockid=179ca7980b056c9a07c4b2210ac16d9e Whoa... that's the same machine. Or, is your first picture not of your machine, but borrowed from eBay? To help those who may possibly be able to help you, this is what the spring assembly looks like...

Good morning Since the spring was missing when I received the phonograph,I’m not sure what it looks like, so if anyone has one of these and can send a photo of the motor it would be greatly appreciated See pictures of motor Thanks Dan

Great to put names to the faces we often see at phonograph events. Thanks for the article.

PhonoDon explained it pretty well...

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I received the phonograph, the reproducer is good , I need to rebuild it, I still need the crank. I looked at the motor and the spring assembly is missing. So I need the spring assembly or a replacement motor . see picture for example of phonograph Thanks Dan

I am looking for Columbia BC Graphophone Cylinder Phonograph parts in any condition. If you have any parts, partial machines, mandrels, etc. please send me some photos if you have any interest in selling. As I said, machines/parts can be missing pieces or broken, I am still interested. I will be at the next Stanton's Auction in late November so if you attend that event we wouldn't have to ship. 😃 Thanks! Lee Baker Lee_bk@comcast.net

Nice transfer, as usual, Dan! Gotta love the Coon-Sanders Nighthawk Orchestra😄!!!

One of my favorites. My copy is a bit rough, but improves as it plays.

As some of you know I am the owner of an Edison Fireside model A Phonograph. I have managed to put this machine back in somewhat working order, but I’ve hit a snag. The belt tension arm is preventing the belt from moving the mandrel. When I have the machine open, I can get the mandrel to move, but not when it’s closed? I have noticed that the tensioner tends to stick? Now correct me if I am wrong, but shouldn’t the arm move a bit more freely?

I’m looking for an oxidized support arm with the patterning for a later Victor R. PM me if you have one available. Can exchange a very nice nickel arm or happy to purchase. Appreciate you looking in your parts draws and boxes. Michael

Hello all, I have a VE-XVIII (serial #961) which came to me with a different style light socket from the one in my VE-XVII. The XVII has a short pull chain with acorn the end, while the XVIII has a turn knob. Would someone please look at their XVIII to verify that their socket style is the same as mine? I have the ability to swap it out for the acorn chain style if that is what others have and if mine has been modified since new. I am a little suspicious inasmuch as I have discovered other non-original parts to this machine. Thank you for taking a look! Don

It’s a given that the springs must bring the end of the needle arm to gently touch the centre of the diaphragm, but beyond that, it is possible to do that with either very light spring tension on both springs or very heavy tension on both springs. The question is how much tension to apply on the springs to optimize the sound of the reproducer. Empirically, one could increment the spring tensions slightly higher in stages and evaluate the sound at each stage, but I thought a little time could be saved if somebody has discovered this “golden tension“ on those springs. As yet, I’ve not heard from anybody who can offer their experience in that regard.

Yes, of course the needle arm position is adjusted by turning the front and back adjusting screws, and those screws bear on the springs. My point is that you cannot adjust the springs apart from adjusting the needle arm position by turning the screws. If you know a way to do this, please tell us!

Yes, it's possible to vary the position of the needle arm relative to the diaphragm by adjusting spring tension. And yes, the springs do have an influence on the ability of the needle bar to vibrate.

AFAIK, it isn’t possible to adjust the tension of the springs separately from their function to position the needle arm. Furthermore, it appears to me that the path of vibration from the needle to the diaphragm does not involve the springs. The absence of any mention of this topic in the available literature would seem to support this conjecture.

In the course of rebuilding Victor exhibition reproducers/sound boxes, I have always wondered what guidelines those who do this might use to expedite the process. Specifically, in addition to adjusting the front and rear adjusting screws (A and B in the attached diagram) so that the needle arm just touches the diaphragm, how much pressure do you place on the springs while doing this? Those arm springs are notoriously stiff. The Victor instructions that I have seen apparently avoid this aspect of adjustment, referring only to the positioning of the needle arm relative to the diaphragm with a phrase such as “when the screws are properly adjusted”. I am hoping for answers along the line of “only adjust the springs as tightly as is necessary to remove any free play between needle assembly and fulcrums”, or perhaps “adjust screws so that there is no contact looseness between the needle assembly and the fulcrums, then increase the pressure on the arm springs by screwing in the arm spring screws one quarter turn (insert your version here) more”. This question comes from knowing that the needle arm must not push or pull on the diaphragm, but that various pressures on the springs achieving that goal will have various impacts on the ability of the needle arm to move in compliance with the vibrations in the record groove. Some balance must be reached between the record blasting and the record sounding “muddy” with loss of sensitivity. I am looking for a “rule of thumb” here based on empirical experience which will achieve a good sounding reproducer that does not blast but which optimizes good frequency response. I would assume any answer might also apply to Victor No. 2 or No. 4 reproducers and the like. Looking to achieve the best “first approximation” with the least effort here. So, any rebuilders out there who might like to weight in on this? Please feel free to comment on the efficacy of sharpening fulcrums (knife edges) or other fine tuning techniques. (Question first posted to The Talking Machine Forum in 2021 without resolution) Thanks, Don

That was fun. Thanks for posting it!

Good morning I’m looking for a reproducer and crank for a Bing Valoretta phonograph. See pictures of reproducer , crank Thanks Dan

Excellent! You are on the right track with Pedro's help.