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I’m looking for an oxidized support arm with the patterning for a later Victor R. PM me if you have one available. Can exchange a very nice nickel arm or happy to purchase. Appreciate you looking in your parts draws and boxes. Michael

Hello all, I have a VE-XVIII (serial #961) which came to me with a different style light socket from the one in my VE-XVII. The XVII has a short pull chain with acorn the end, while the XVIII has a turn knob. Would someone please look at their XVIII to verify that their socket style is the same as mine? I have the ability to swap it out for the acorn chain style if that is what others have and if mine has been modified since new. I am a little suspicious inasmuch as I have discovered other non-original parts to this machine. Thank you for taking a look! Don

It’s a given that the springs must bring the end of the needle arm to gently touch the centre of the diaphragm, but beyond that, it is possible to do that with either very light spring tension on both springs or very heavy tension on both springs. The question is how much tension to apply on the springs to optimize the sound of the reproducer. Empirically, one could increment the spring tensions slightly higher in stages and evaluate the sound at each stage, but I thought a little time could be saved if somebody has discovered this “golden tension“ on those springs. As yet, I’ve not heard from anybody who can offer their experience in that regard.

Yes, of course the needle arm position is adjusted by turning the front and back adjusting screws, and those screws bear on the springs. My point is that you cannot adjust the springs apart from adjusting the needle arm position by turning the screws. If you know a way to do this, please tell us!

Yes, it's possible to vary the position of the needle arm relative to the diaphragm by adjusting spring tension. And yes, the springs do have an influence on the ability of the needle bar to vibrate.

AFAIK, it isn’t possible to adjust the tension of the springs separately from their function to position the needle arm. Furthermore, it appears to me that the path of vibration from the needle to the diaphragm does not involve the springs. The absence of any mention of this topic in the available literature would seem to support this conjecture.

In the course of rebuilding Victor exhibition reproducers/sound boxes, I have always wondered what guidelines those who do this might use to expedite the process. Specifically, in addition to adjusting the front and rear adjusting screws (A and B in the attached diagram) so that the needle arm just touches the diaphragm, how much pressure do you place on the springs while doing this? Those arm springs are notoriously stiff. The Victor instructions that I have seen apparently avoid this aspect of adjustment, referring only to the positioning of the needle arm relative to the diaphragm with a phrase such as “when the screws are properly adjusted”. I am hoping for answers along the line of “only adjust the springs as tightly as is necessary to remove any free play between needle assembly and fulcrums”, or perhaps “adjust screws so that there is no contact looseness between the needle assembly and the fulcrums, then increase the pressure on the arm springs by screwing in the arm spring screws one quarter turn (insert your version here) more”. This question comes from knowing that the needle arm must not push or pull on the diaphragm, but that various pressures on the springs achieving that goal will have various impacts on the ability of the needle arm to move in compliance with the vibrations in the record groove. Some balance must be reached between the record blasting and the record sounding “muddy” with loss of sensitivity. I am looking for a “rule of thumb” here based on empirical experience which will achieve a good sounding reproducer that does not blast but which optimizes good frequency response. I would assume any answer might also apply to Victor No. 2 or No. 4 reproducers and the like. Looking to achieve the best “first approximation” with the least effort here. So, any rebuilders out there who might like to weight in on this? Please feel free to comment on the efficacy of sharpening fulcrums (knife edges) or other fine tuning techniques. (Question first posted to The Talking Machine Forum in 2021 without resolution) Thanks, Don

That was fun. Thanks for posting it!

Good morning I’m looking for a reproducer and crank for a Bing Valoretta phonograph. See pictures of reproducer , crank Thanks Dan

Excellent! You are on the right track with Pedro's help.

Ethan Hatcher, a local radio personality in Indianapolis, recently participated in a segment on WIBC, a local Indianapolis radio station, on a show called, “First Day with Terri Stacy” which has a Show and Tell segment. Ethan, who also has a show on the same channel on Saturday evening called, “Saturday on the Circle”, demonstrated his Victor 5 on the radio (also available on YouTube). It was quite a moment for the host. Ethan, a member of HAPS, Hoosier Antique Phonograph Society, is a frequent contributor on this show. Thanks to Mark Ginter for grabbing the video. Total duration of merged clips, 5 minutes, 54 seconds Adobe Express - Adobe Express - First Day with Terri Stacy - Merged_Clips.mp4

I've contacted pedrofono and he can help me fix the issue with the arm. I will send him the whole back bracket and arm, as well as the crank which I never could fix either, the wood is stuck and won't revolve. Hopefully I'll be back here with a video of a happy machine! It'll be awhile since I live between 2 countries! Thanks for all the input!!!

One of the things I learned after doing my first belt was to always vice grip the top splice and not the bottom one. I did it in reverse, and it pulled slightly apart. The belt works, but it is slightly ugly-looking. Wyatt does make it look easy, but I found that if you follow the video, it works just fine. My Columbia A now has a belt.

Found this part

Found

Also sold now is No 45 - one of the rare German Stern Hartgusswalze. Only one of that brand is left ... so, if you want it, that's your chance! And many other rare and nice boxes are also still available. 🙂

Thank you for all the good advice! What you suggest sounds like a really good solution - but out of my league I'm afraid. I will look for a small mechanical shop or try to find someone who can help me do it. Come to think of it I'm in Spain so maybe I should reach out to Pedro phono - he seems to be able to do almost anything machine wise. I will contact him and see what he says. I'll get back here when I have news!

You need to bush the hole. Problem is, the dimension needed to fill is likely vanishingly small. Measure the diameter of the pin, fashion a bushing out of brass tubing (hobby shop) or small hollow brass rivet (hardware store) with appropriate inner diameter to fit snugly (but not binding, of course) over the pin. To install the bushing, it will be necessary to enlarge the hole in the cross piece. If you work carefully, you can make it a press fit (or “fudge it” with super glue). HTH

I think that may do more harm than good.

I see, no I'm not sure I would be able to do that. Don't have the proper tools for it either (nor am I really sure which they would be). Perhaps another option would be to slightly bend the little rod that has too much play at present? A few small whacks in the direction of the turntable - or would I risk making things worse, could it brake off?

I am looking for a female crank for an L-Door XVI. Please let me know if you have one and the price. Thanks, Ken Brekke

The cross bar piece is tightly pressed in place. It's not intended to be loose, so it's not a matter of its being stuck and needing to be freed up. In all honesty, it would be difficult to remove and press back into place if you're not accustomed to doing that sort of work.

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Great article. Thanks for all you efforts to promote this excellent phonograph show.

Thanks Jerry! That makes sense! There is definitely too much movement there, almost enough to try and fit a thin metal in on the right side. I've tried moving the cross bar using a good pair of pliers and force but it doesn't budge. Question is: should it? Or is it welded stuck (I see no indication of that) Maybe using some kind of chemical or freezing the whole thing would help loosen it up?