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That's a sweetheart, Rene! If I saw one like it (condition) at a show, I'd be very tempted. George P.

MODEL: AQ YEARS MADE: 1903 to ca. 1908 COST: $3 CASE/CABINET SIZE: base 12" x 5.5" REPRODUCER: fixed in place MOTOR: single spring HORN DIMENSIONS: 10" REPRODUCTION PARTS: none This is certainly not a great rarity, however it is a bit unusual and very interesting. It's also something of a mystery. Columbia never advertised or catalogued it, so why was it made in the first place? It's an offshoot of the previous Type AP, which was Columbia's attempt to make a European-style 'Puck' phonograph, with basic motor and no feedscrew to guide the reproducer. It was carried by the grooves of the cylinder itself, and would skid across the record if it wasn't perfectly level. One of the rear 'feet' was adjustable to level the base. The AP is fairly rare, and was obviously not successful. At some point Columbia opted to take the existing AP base and motor and add a very crude feedscrew to make it more reliable. The connection between the horn and reproducer was improved, along with the horn mount. But otherwise it was pretty similar. Reportedly the AQ was priced at $3, or $2 less than the basic Type Q. But since Columbia evidently didn't market them directly, its purpose is vague. The only known ads showing the AQ offer it as a "premium machine," that was given away for free with the purchase of other items (which were presumably heavily marked up to cover the cost of the AQ). Later, Columbia liquidated stocks of AQ Graphophones through Sears Roebuck, replacing the cone horn with a brass-belled horn which, while short, had a fairly large diameter bell. These were marketed as "Oxford Jr." In my experience there are more surviving Oxford versions than the earlier style. Both are moderately scarce, especially compared to the very common Type Q. It's actually a pretty well-made little machine, despite its obviously cheap construction. The motor is essentially the same as a Q, but with the spring and drive gears covered. The governor remains open, as in the Q. It runs pretty quietly and plays surprisingly well, especially given that my reproducer has not been rebuilt. The base is identical to the AP except that the leveling foot has been replaced with a fixed brass one. This is probably an early example, with "KEEP LEVEL" stamped on the gear cover -- a carry-over from the AP. What is most surprising to me about this example is the condition. It's quite amazing for a cheap machine which never had a cover. It must have had a short working life, so I wonder how it survived well over a century in such nice condition.

The piece on the far right is a cover for a feedscrew, probably from an Edison Standard. The rubber tube is a horn connector but this is modern -- it has a metal insert that swivels on the horn mount. There is an eBay seller offering this design but I've never heard of it existing in the past.

Bottom left, either a reproducer or recorded, (sorry, I'm not much of a cylinder guy to tell them apart) a rubber horn connector next to it? The bottom of the support to a horn crane, and I'm not sure what the last rod on the right is? Maybe another part of a horn crane?

The arm would go on the other side of the catch. Originally, its purpose was to help "reset" the arm for the auto-stop. The arm would push against the catch to move it over, so when you placed the needle in the final groove of the record it would make contact with the auto-stop arm, rather than having to push the arm itself, similar to the auto-stops on some Sonoras. It does appear the auto-stop itself is missing? I remember when this machine popped up in the Facebook group, with the owner looking to sell it. I was curious if the arm was original, as it's an early- to mid-1920s supplier arm, around the time production ended for Puritan, about 1922–1923. I have seen Puritans with these similar early- to mid-1920s arms, which makes me wonder if they were installed at the factory late in production just to use up the remaining stock, or if they were added later in an attempt to update them. Still, if it was added later, it seems like a lot of work to also add the catch but not the auto-stop itself. Are there any signs underneath the turntable that it was removed? 17,835 does seem like a high serial number. J.D. Skattebo has supposedly compiled many UPC serial numbers, but not to sound critical, it does seem like a bit of hyperbole to me.

I have successfully melted, and recast brown wax shards. Though the rough castings weight 210 grams, finished records 90-100 grams. S Borri.

I was able to bring this home yesterday. I have had one of these models before but this one has all the metal parts nickel plated. I also can't figure out the little drop arm on the tone arm and the bracket below it on the motor board. It has been refinished and they saved the decal. The overall condition is pretty good. Does anyone know what the drop arm is on the tone arm? Also, does anyone have any documentation of this model coming with nickel plated parts?

Raphael, I missed seeing you. I hope the health issues improve and I am very happy you found things in the pictures that interested you. Dan

I have a picture of spare parts and need help to identify what they each are

Jerry, Thank you for your response and solid advice, this is exactly what I was hoping for. Wayne

Wayne, There is no easy way to make that look much better. You saw in the "Restoration Diary", how a similar, (but worse), top plate was restored. Recall that the blistered areas were chipped away, revealing rust underneath, then lots of sanding, filling in the missing finish with many coats of paint, fine sanding, new stripe decals where needed, and finally many coats of shellac. That's if you want it to look like the example in the "diary". If you just want it to be shiny, then I suppose shellac will do that. However, please at least remove the blistered/rusty spots and repaint those areas. Also, sand down the paint already applied on the right edge, to level it out. Very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper, along with using a sanding block. New decals before shellac, as well. Remove the nameplate before shellac. Just coating what you've got, as-is, would be akin to putting make-up on a pig. I don't mean that to be sarcastic, but I can't come up with a better analogy. As to what type of paint, the "diary" mentioned "asphaltum" as being the filler paint.

Hello, I've been struggling with my DX bedplate condition. It's inconsistent in appearance, and after multiple cleaning, shining, etc. I can't get the results I want. After looking at this wonderful presentation (Restoration Diary" that was posted some time ago,, I wanted to ask for an opinion about mine. Please see the attached photo and any advise would be appreciated. I'm hoping to use shellac (or something similar) to get that shine back but was concerned about causing other issues. Also, should I attempt touching up the paint scratches, etc., and if so with what type of paint? Could you describe the process? Thanks, Wayne Cukras Broadview Hts, Oh

Dan, Due to family health issues, I was unable to attend, but thanks to your photos was able to scope out and purchase a few items, and Joe Filer graciously is bringing them back to S. Florida for me. Looks like I missed a great show. Raphael

Thanks as always for the excellent photos Dan. I've always loved seeing the images of this show, but this was my first time attending. What a great time! I loved every minute of it. Even beyond the incredible machines for sale, I really enjoyed meeting you and so many others in person. I'm already looking forward to next year.

Hello, I've been struggling with my DX bedplate condition. It's inconsistent in appearance, and after multiple cleaning, shining, etc. I can't get the results I want. After looking at this wonderful presentation I wanted to ask for an opinion about mine. Please see the attached photo and any advise would be appreciated. I'm hoping to use shellac (or something similar) to get that shine back but was concerned about causing other issues. Also, should I attempt touching up the paint scratches, etc., and if so with what type of paint? Could you describe the process? Thanks, Wayne Cukras Broadview Hts, Oh

I agree. It was well organized and one of the best show in years. All the people that make it possible are really helping keep this crazy hobby alive and kicking. Thanks!

Awesome show again this year!!! Thanks for Terry Baer and all others that helped organize it all. Already looking forward to next year.

Thanks for the pictures. I recognized several people in them. Would have been nice to attend.

Great photos of a great show. I bought very little but enjoyed a lot just being there. Had a nice conversation with Wyatt Markus, as well as many others.

I had a great time at the show and I spent all my cash. I took some pictures, but they are not as good as the ones already posted. Thanks to all at the APS for bringing it back for another great year!

Thanks for the pics - looks like a great turnout.

Great photos, thank for sharing them! I wish I could have been there. Lots of great machines to be seen.

Fun show with lots of good stuff!

For sale, antique Mammut coin operated disc photograph. The motor is in working order although the governor needs some adjustment. Has the original horn, bracket and tone arm. Reproducer was changed over to a Cromona at sometime in life. Unfortunately, the Coin up mechanism has been removed. Asking $850 or best offer. Free delivery to the show in Schaumburg this Friday.

Thanks! Interesting!