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I've never seen such a study, which really should start with an online survey of existing machines, focusing on serial number, and a handful of evolving production characteristics. The longer the survey, the less likely it is to be completed. George P.

I know, I know, the little common workhorse… Have the Edison Amberola 30 variations over the full production run ever had a posted/published study, even an approximate serial number and date range for those variations? For example, the very first Amberola 30 run with gold pinstripes, exposed speed control, front grill, etc. and when these early details were dropped. And the opposite end, the late/final version with the more plain case, and the high serial range (I believe in the 220k range?). Thanks, Patrick Toronto, Canada

https://youtu.be/VQFame_Ramg

Measure the distance from the center of the turntable spindle to the swivel point of the tone arm, or in other words, from the spindle to the center of the hole that the tone arm mounts over. Pretty much, any tone arm/reproducer assembly that has a matching** dimension from the tip of the needle to the center of the arm swivel, will work for your phonograph. The only other possible, limiting feature, may be the diameter of the tone arm mounting base versus the diameter of the hole in the deck of the phonograph. **This does not need to be an exact match. Within 3/8" one way or the other would be just fine.

Sorry for the late response, but I'm not completely sure. Almost any supplier arm will work, as long as the tracking lines up, where the needle falls just behind (around) the spindle.

It’s the Premiere aka American Quartet! John Bieling (first tenor), Billy Murray(second tenor), Steve Porter(baritone), and William F. Hooley(bass).

I guess it's my age---I could see that punch line coming! Thanks for posting today's laugh! By the way, who are the performers?

I think this dog will be allowed on the furniture now. 😀 Thank you! James.

A very impressive and sympathetic restoration! Congratulations! George P.

Absolutely Fantastic Job!!!! Gives me hope for my 17 inch paper mache Nipper with a broken leg and some chips. Well Done Sir, Well Done!!!

Searching the internet, there’s no discussion detailing a Nipper restoration. I also do not know if the Nipper Collectibles books provide instruction. I thought that I would add this here and on The Talking Machine Forum. The following is my experience. Thanks for looking. James. ……………………………. Ev’ry time I come to town The boys keep kickin’ my dawg aroun’; Makes no difference if he is a houn’, They gotta quit kickin’ my dawg aroun’. I bought this 14” Nipper two years ago, and soon after that an Art Nouveau mirror. They both needed airbrush restoration. Several years earlier I had sold my airbrush that sat inactive for a 20 years. Won an auction and a new airbrush arrived ready for use. Life decided to step in and delayed these projects for a year. The mirror was successfully restored a few months ago, and now it’s Nipper’s turn. I bought him with one leg broken and poor packing broke another. At lease it had insurance and the project remained unchanged. I’m a fan of watching an art restorer on YouTube, Baumgartner Restoration. While I do not adhere to the same rules he abides by, I keep in mind what he well explains. The first two sets of images shows the scope of the project. I pondered how to apply pressure on the legs. I thought of Baumgartner and his “clampinator”. I used a miter box to strap the patient down. This provided room to inject Titebond II wood glue all around with ease. A board pressed on the hind legs and the leg being set, simulated a table top and kept it in position with pressure and I could easily monitor it as the glue set. Also, I made sure to quickly wipe all glue off beyond the join. The left leg was just hanging on, but all of its breaks fit together very well. The gluing and clamping worked perfectly and he sits evenly on the tabletop. Interestingly, this leg was weak at its time of manufacture. The pictured dowel was in it and has the same red primer under the paint on its end. I glued it back in place. I used a small bit of foam sponge to clean the broad undamaged surface, barely damp and q-tip swabs dampened with saliva around the chips. The red primer is water soluble and needs to be sealed. I used thinned white Testors model paint for that. Next I filled the newly primed voids with several passes of Dap Alex Plus spackel until the edges did not cast a shadow or reflect light, all the time avoiding getting it on the surface beyond the void. I originally thought I would use flat Testors model paint, but I could not get the color close enough. I switch to water color paint. The color that worked for this dog was thinned Yellow Ochre sprayed until the white spackel began to look yellowish. If need, thinned Burnt Umber on top of that. Nipper will be sealed with rattle can Krylon Sealer (it’s a satin clear). The original finish with its aged surface and touch-ups are available upon close inspection. The magic begins about 12” away.

PM sent. James.

Great! (In the gear manufacturing world, they're known as "four start" and "two start" worms.)

I had a great phone conversation with Bill. I understand the difference in the gears now. Ya learn something new every day. Thanks!!!!

An example of the "quad cut" spindle gear type of motor, was shown by Bill Meyer, on 4/2/26 at 12:34PM, in your TMF posting. https://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewtopic.php?t=62639

Thanks for the replies. I am on the hunt for a replacement motor for a very late Victor VI. The Victor Data Book shows that same motor was used in some later XIV and XVI models.

I believe the "quad cut" spindle gears are the later style, with fine teeth, versus the the early gears with heavy, square cut teeth.

Hello, Looking for a lateral adapter with an oxidized finish and a throat volume control, for use with an Edison A-150 and its lovely oxidized parts. Photo of desired lateral adapter is attached. I'm thinking this is a Union adapter, perhaps a No. 2? Thanks. David

Good luck!

Yes, that is the picture I remember seeing. THANKS!!! I am trying to figure out what the difference in the motors would be between a double cut gears and spindles and a quad cut gears and spindles motor would look like. I should know the difference between double cut and quad cut but don't. I am hoping to find the correct motor and turntable for the late Victor VI I am planning on restoring. According to the Victor Data Book, the quad cut gear motor was also used on some later VV-XVI and VV-XIV models. I think this late Victor VI is worth restoring. It is only 30 serial numbers away from the end of production. Wish me luck!!!!

I just Googled "Victrola Motors Harold Braker" and this old CAPS post came up. There were a couple of versions of this guide, and this may not be the updated one, but hopefully it will help: https://www.capsnews.org/apn1995-1.htm George P.

Hmmm... I don't know why the images should be missing. George P.

Thanks!!!! The article refers to several photos. But, they aren't in the article. Am I missing something? I am trying to figure out what motor goes into a very late Victor VI. The Victor Data Book mentions it should be a motor with quad cut gears and take a 5/16" female crank. Earlier Victor VI models used a double cut spindle gear. I should know what the difference is but don't. Time to learn. The motor board doesn't have the large hole in it for the large spindle plate to use the yielding turntable. I am looking to restore a Victor VI with a serial number of 13971 which is only 30 away from the end of production. Someone put in a later Victrola motor and there are extra holes where the original motor was mounted. The Victor data book also mentions this motor was used in some VV-XIV and VV-XVI models.

Check "Member Resources" on the APS website and search for "Article_Advanced_Braker-Victor-Motor.pdf." George P.