The following is my experience.

Thanks for looking.

James.

…………………………….

Ev’ry time I come to town

The boys keep kickin’ my dawg aroun’;

Makes no difference if he is a houn’,

They gotta quit kickin’ my dawg aroun’.

I bought this 14” Nipper two years ago, and soon after that an Art Nouveau mirror. They both needed airbrush restoration. Several years earlier I had sold my airbrush that sat inactive for a 20 years. Won an auction and a new airbrush arrived ready for use. Life decided to step in and delayed these projects for a year.

The mirror was successfully restored a few months ago, and now it’s Nipper’s turn. I bought him with one leg broken and poor packing broke another. At lease it had insurance and the project remained unchanged.

I’m a fan of watching an art restorer on YouTube, Baumgartner Restoration. While I do not adhere to the same rules he abides by, I keep in mind what he well explains.

The first two sets of images shows the scope of the project.

I pondered how to apply pressure on the legs. I thought of Baumgartner and his “clampinator”. I used a miter box to strap the patient down. This provided room to inject Titebond II wood glue all around with ease. A board pressed on the hind legs and the leg being set, simulated a table top and kept it in position with pressure and I could easily monitor it as the glue set. Also, I made sure to quickly wipe all glue off beyond the join.

The left leg was just hanging on, but all of its breaks fit together very well. The gluing and clamping worked perfectly and he sits evenly on the tabletop. Interestingly, this leg was weak at its time of manufacture. The pictured dowel was in it and has the same red primer under the paint on its end. I glued it back in place.

I used a small bit of foam sponge to clean the broad undamaged surface, barely damp and q-tip swabs dampened with saliva around the chips.

The red primer is water soluble and needs to be sealed. I used thinned white Testors model paint for that.

Next I filled the newly primed voids with several passes of Dap Alex Plus spackel until the edges did not cast a shadow or reflect light, all the time avoiding getting it on the surface beyond the void.

I originally thought I would use flat Testors model paint, but I could not get the color close enough. I switch to water color paint. The color that worked for this dog was thinned Yellow Ochre sprayed until the white spackel began to look yellowish. If need, thinned Burnt Umber on top of that. Nipper will be sealed with rattle can Krylon Sealer (it’s a satin clear).

The original finish with its aged surface and touch-ups are available upon close inspection. The magic begins about 12” away.

George P.

Admittedly, that was heavily oxidized brass.  We've probably all seen worse, but this horn looked like it would require a couple of hours of elbow grease.  Well, I'll bet it didn't take nearly that long to achieve this result:

The supposed miracle cure was Barkeeper's Friend, a moderately abrasive cleanser that certainly has its uses, but not for this application.  Compare what abrasives do (above) to what polish does (below):

A picture speaks a thousand words.  I'll only add that soft metals like brass and aluminum are easily scratched by even moderate abrasives like Barkeeper's Friend and Brasso.  They won't leave a reflective surface, but rather a dull glow - the result of thousands of tiny scratches.  Here's an aluminum horn shown partially polished by hand - using POLISH:

The moral of the story (in case it hasn't already been beaten to death) is that POLISH is preferable to products such as Brasso and Barkeeper's Friend.  Sure, it takes longer and your fingers may be sore the next day, but...isn't it worth it?

I recommend easily obtainable polishes (auto parts stores or Wal-Mart) such as Mothers, White Diamond or Blue Magic.  For heavily oxidized surfaces like those shown above, start with Nevr-Dull cotton wadding.  I've had wonderful results with these products.  (See 3/22/24 post below for an even BETTER suggestion when dealing with heavy oxidation/tarnish...)

George P.

Before I go any further I would like to thank Greg at Phono Decals and Gary at Shenandoah Antique Restoration.  Neither are taking on any more wood graining projects but both were generous enough to provide guidance and advice for my project 

1.  Started with a damaged beat up cygnet horn elbow 

2. Stripped remaining paint, pressed out the dents and sanded smooth

3.  Sprayed on a base coat closest to the original undercoat that I could find;  Rust-oleum  Nutmeg 

4.  Sprayed on a layer of Shellac (I had to protect the undercoat because the stain I used stripped off the first coat when I applied it to the elbow)

5.  Brushed on a thin layer of Mahogany (red colored) wiping stain. I chose this stain because I had it available on my shelf from previous projects.  I applied the stain with a $ 1 paint brush and pulled off the stain at the same time leaving a fine gain appearance like mahogany wood.

6.  Sprayed another layer of Shellac 

7.  Brushed on Brown Mahogany wiping stain to give the appearance of darker wood grained areas.

8.  Sprayed on Satin Lacquer ( I could have used a semi gloss finish as well but that was way was on my shelf)

9.  Applied a layer of Renascence Wax to match the finish of the original bell.

Although this process sounds complicated it actually was quite straightforward and the final result is very close to the original.   I am sure that is because duplicating Mahogany wood grain is a lot simpler than the artistic skill required to duplicate the faux wood graining for Oak horns.

Bruce

Ethan, who also has a show on the same channel on Saturday evening called, “Saturday on the Circle”, demonstrated his Victor 5 on the radio (also available on YouTube).

It was quite a moment for the host.  Ethan, a member of HAPS, Hoosier Antique Phonograph Society, is a frequent contributor on this show. 

Thanks to Mark Ginter for grabbing the video.

Total duration of merged clips, 5 minutes, 54 seconds

Books are not infallible, but individuals who expend the effort to research, write, and publish their results are less likely to commit serious errors than the average person with a keyboard or smartphone.

This list of helpful books was begun by Jerry Blais back in 2015 on the Talking Machine Forum.  It can still be found there in the "Links" section.  The list received contributions from a number of other collectors, nearly all of which are included here, as well as updates I've added.  

Books Specific to a Manufacture or Type:
The Edison Cylinder Phonographs by George Frow (out of print but available as an e-book).
Edison Cylinder Phonograph Companion by George Frow.
The Edison Disc Phonograph and the Diamond Discs by George Frow.
Columbia Phonograph Companion - Volume I  by Howard Hazelcorn (cylinder Graphophones)
Columbia Phonograph Companion Volume II  by Robert W. Baumbach & Mac Lackey (Disc Graphophones and Grafonolas).
Look For The Dog - An Illustrated Guide to Victor Talking Machines by Robert W. Baumbach.
Victor Data Book by Robert W. Baumbach.
Tinfoil Phonographs by Rene Rondeau.
The Berliner Gramophone an Illustrated History by Mark Caruana-Dingli.

The Incomparable Capehart by Robert W. Baumbach.

The Following Books were Authored by Tim Fabrizio and George Paul (for information on these books, see my additional post below):
Phonographs With Flair: A Century Of Style In Sound Reproduction, 1877-1929
The Talking Machine - An Illustrated Compendium, 1877-1929
Antique Phonograph Accessories & Contraptions
Phonographica - The Early History Of Recorded Sound Observed
Antique Phonograph Advertising - An Illustrated History
Discovering Antique Phonographs, 1877- 1929
Antique Phonograph Gadgets, Gizmos, & Gimmicks
A World Of Antique Phonographs

Great books by Joan & Robin Rolfs:
Nipper Collectibles
Nipper Collectibles Volume II

Nipper Collectibles Volume III
Phonograph Dolls and Toys

Recommended For the Newcomer (and the Experienced as well):
Possibly the most valuable book for the new collector is The Compleat Talking Machine by Eric L. Reiss. There is a wealth of information about basic repairs as well as some phonograph history and many photos.

Early Books Related to our Hobby:
The Fabulous Phonograph by Roland Gelatt - 1955.  A highly readable and largely accurate resource.
From Tinfoil To Stereo by Oliver Read & Walter Welch - 1959.  If you've ever wondered where the anti-Columbia Graphophone or Zonophone bias came from, read From Tinfoil to Stereo. It is full of bias and many errors but was for many years considered a collectors bible.  (It is available in three editions (1959, 1976, 1994). The 1994 3rd edition is best avoided. It was a condensed version which somehow retained all the errors of the earlier editions.)

Disc Records:
Collector's Guide to Victor Records by Michael Sherman.
Collector's Guide to Edison Disc Records by George Copeland and Michael Sherman.
Edison Disc Recordings by Raymond Wile.

Physical Characteristics and Label Iconography of the 7-Inch American Berliner Record, 1892-1900 by Michael Sherman and David Giovannoni

Berliner Gramophone Records in America, A Discography by Paul Charosh

American Record Company/Hawthorne & Sheble/International Record Company Histories and Discographies, 1904-1909 by William Bryant; Edited and annotated by Allan Sutton

Leeds & Catlin Records, A History and Discography by William Bryant; Edited and annotated by Allan Sutton

The American Zonophone Discography - Volume 1, Ten- and Twelve-Inch Popular Series (1904-1912) by William Bryant

Note the Notes, An Illustrated History of the Columbia Record Labekl, 1901-1958, by Mike Sherman and Kurt Nauck

Refinishing/Repair
The Furniture Doctor by George Grotz - quick solutions to almost any type of woodworking problem you might ever have.

European Focus:

Edison Phonograph : The British Connection (Frank Andrews).
Collecting Phonographs and Gramophones (Christopher Proudfoot).
The EMG Story (Frank James).
His Master's Gramophone (Brian Oakley & Christopher Proudfoot).
The Illustrated History of Phonographs (Daniel Marty).

Recording Artists and Gaisberg Auto/Biography:

The Music Goes Round by Fred Gaisberg, published in 1942, is an autobiography of his work as a pioneer recording engineer and talent spotter for The Gramophone Company (later ‘His Master’s Voice’). His book covers the early history of the Columbia, Berliner and the Gramophone companies, the technicalities of early recording and the humorous and emotional demands of dealing with divas. He traveled extensively and he wrote of the recording sessions in Europe and throughout Asia, and of his reactions to foreign music and culture.  Some of Gaisberg's recollections have been debunked, but it's a good read nevertheless.

A Matter of Records, by Jerrold Northrup Moore (1977) covers much the same ground as Gaisberg's book, but with a biographer's lens into more personal aspects of Gaisberg's life.  A broader and more accurate view Gaisberg's impact on the early industry.  Personally, I prefer this to Gaisberg's own book.

Cylinder Records:

Edison Blue Amberol Recordings, 1912-1914 Vol. 1 by Ron Dethfelson
Edison Blue Amberol Recordings, 1915-1929,Vol. 2 by Ron Dethfelson
Indestructible and U-S Everlasting Cylinders: An Illustrated History and Cylinderography By Kurt Nauck & Allan

Sutton

Edison Two Minute and Concert Cylinders by Allan Sutton
Edison Amberol Cylinders, US and Foreign Issues, 1908-1913 by Allan Sutton

Edison, Lambert Concert Records & Columbia Grand Records and Related Phonographs by George Copeland & Ron Dethlefson

Edison Cylinder Records 1889-1912 by Allan Koenigsberg.

The Cylinder Record Compendium, by Mark Caruana-Dingli

Two-Minute Brown Wax and XP Cylinder Records of the Columbia Phonograph Company, Numerical Catalogue August, 1896- ca. March, 1909, by Kenneth M. Lorenz

I know most long time collectors have seen these restorations, but for new collectors it gives an idea of what is possible...

Buyers are welcome to send any of the following reference-links to Sellers, for a helpful guide for shipment / transport:

For 78's:

https://antiquephono.net/pack-ship-thin

For Edison DD's:

https://antiquephono.net/pack-ship-thick

For Cylinders:

https://antiquephono.net/pack-ship-cylinders 

For Large Machines:

https://antiquephono.net/pack-ship-large-machine

For Victor Victrola:

https://antiquephono.net/pack-transport-victor-victrola

For Edison Diamond Disc:

https://antiquephono.net/pack-transport-edison-dd

"I never (emphasis on "NEVER") buy records on eBay without providing the seller with packing instructions. I know this has saved several rare records from destruction, as the sellers have occasionally thanked me, and indicated that they would have mailed the record(s) in an envelope!

"We can only do so much, but providing packing instructions is - in my opinion - our duty. It's unreasonable to expect John Q. Public to know how to pack 78s or cylinders." 

Just for fun, here are a couple of examples where - despite the sellers' failure to follow my "suggestions," the records arrived safely.

This is a rare Reed & Dawson 5-inch box with an intact cylinder record.  Fortunately, neither were damaged in shipment.  Well, let's be fair - - that single layer of bubble wrap really did the trick!  Time to buy a lottery ticket.

Here are 11 Columbia Type C cylinder records in their boxes, which arrived just yesterday.  My heart kind of sank when I saw the size of the unopened box...  But once again, good luck smiled upon these records, and perhaps they will survive for another 125 years.  The 13 packing peanuts fell from the upper inside edge of the box as I opened it.  I am grateful to the seller for wrapping the boxes in saran wrap (which I requested) as well as the records themselves (which I did not).  I suspect that the extra wrapping aided in their survival...but I'm awfully glad no substantial weight was applied to this box!

As I wrote above, we can only do so much.  Sometimes luck plays a part, but I will continue to provide packing instructions whenever I buy records from eBay sellers. 

George P.

For 78's:

https://antiquephono.net/pack-ship-thin

For Edison DD's:

https://antiquephono.net/pack-ship-thick

For Cylinders:

https://antiquephono.net/pack-ship-cylinders

Nickel Plating Tutorial.pdf

Look at the paint on the mandrel!  Some fingerprints were good enough to convict whoever did this...

Then there was all the paint on the lid...

Luckily, the decal was relatively undamaged.  Considering the scratching just to the left of the decal, and the lack of thick black paint on the decal, it was almost miraculous:

The Eagle is a pretty easy machine to clean up, because there's no paint to deal with.  The decal(s), however, can be very tricky.  The company decals always had a finish applied over them, so they're somewhat protected.  A retailer decal is a different matter, and they must be very carefully handled - - preferably left alone if possible.  This particular Eagle has two celluloid plates with retailer information ink-stamped on them.  I've seen similar celluloid plates wiped clean of ink by folks who didn't realize how fragile the old ink is.  No cleaning agents should ever be used on these - - just a bit of damp rag carefully and lightly wiped across the surface.

Well...time to start.  Get out your nitrile gloves!

This Eagle must be taken apart; down to the last screw.  There's no other way to properly clean it, and if it's not clean, you can't expect it to work properly.  I tend to let metal parts soak in WD-40 overnight to loosen grunge.  Then I use 0000 steel wool to remove hardened grease, fossilized oil, and - in this case - paint.  Once the metal parts are clean and dry, I'll polish them with Nevr-Dull or Mother's - - sometimes both.  I haven't figured out why one product will sometimes work better on one part while the other product works better on another.

...But what about the wooden parts?

To remove grime, I use Goop, GoJo, or similar NONPUMICED hand cleaner readily available from big-box stores.  Just wipe it on with a clean piece of paper towel, let it sit a minute, then wipe it off with another clean paper towel.  I have a box full of worn-out socks that I use for final rubbing once the paper towels start coming out clean.  Oftentimes, a second application is necessary.  If the surface feels a bit sticky, it needs another application.  CAUTION:  some of the cheaper machines used cheaper finishes, and after a couple of applications the finish will still be tacky.  Allow the wood to dry overnight or even a couple of days.

Now, hand cleaner won't remove all that paint, and that's where 0000 steel wool come in handy again.  EASY DOES IT.  You want the 0000 steel wool saturated with hand cleaner, and you want to rub only where the paint is at first.  if you've done a general cleaning with the hand cleaner already, the paint may have softened enough that it will come off with little effort.  Don't rub any harder than necessary - - you don't want to go through the finish.  You'll have a sore thumb for a day or two, but it will be worth it.  Be very, very careful when working over decals, and stop immediately if you see the decal losing color.

When all the paint is gone, wipe everything clean with a soft rag (old socks?). 

Now you can reassemble everything, applying a small drop of quality oil to bearings and gear teeth (no Three-In-One because it gums up in time).   If you were careful, it should look something like this:

As always, know your limitations, ask questions when unsure, and take your time.  Good luck!

George P.

I know that a lot of great machines have been brought back from the dead and just wondered if some of the most difficult and rewarding restorations might be documented and preserved...

I also don’t know what grease to use (there isn’t a manual, at least I don’t think so)

Disassembly, cleaning, rebuilding, and reassembly of the governor and reproducer are not covered here since these are more generic devices and the techniques are more widely known.

STEP 1:

Step 1 for any project involves gathering the appropriate tools.  If you don’t have appropriate tools, do yourself (and future owners of the machine) a favor and stop.  Get the tools you need to do the job properly.  They don’t need to be fancy, but they need to fit.  A too-large or too-small screwdriver blade is an invitation for trouble and damage.   A long shank will come in handy when working on Eagles.  Also shown is an inexpensive set of jeweler’s screwdrivers bought at Wal-Mart over a decade ago.  They have served me very well - - and I’ve had to put some torque to them on several occasions.  The large, comfortable handle is far superior to the narrow, pencil-like jeweler’s screwdrivers.

In addition, you’ll need a 7/16” box wrench (you can use a crescent wrench or even an adjustable wrench, but the likelihood of slipping and scarring the machine is greater).  A pair of needle-nose pliers might also come in handy in Step 12…but we’ll get to that.

STEP 2:

Here’s what a typical cased Eagle Graphophone looks like with its key and reproducer removed.  Someone decided that this Eagle would look better with red governor weights, but we’ll fix that atrocity in due time.  Take a quick look around the mechanism.  Are the screw heads scarred?  If so, it’s a sign that an unskilled “handyman” has been here before you.  He may have left souvenirs of his ineptitude in his wake.  You may need to fix his mistakes.  Or, you may get lucky.  One thing’s for certain: the Eagle Graphophone sitting before you wants to run again, and it will do everything in its power to help you achieve that goal.  The machine is your friend.  You can save it.  Let’s get started.

STEP 3:

All Eagle Graphophones originally had belt covers.  However, they are secured by two tiny screws, and over the years legions of handymen have removed the belt covers, lost the screws, ultimately mislaid the belt covers, and proven themselves dolts because they didn’t follow Step 1.  You won’t do that, will you?  Unscrew the speed control (the knurled knob sticking out from the lower end of the belt cover), and remove both screws from the belt cover.

(Reassembly tip: When reassembling the belt cover to the motor plate, remember that gravity is your friend.  Hold the motor sideways, align the belt cover with the screw holes, and place the screws in the holes, one at a time.  I’ve used tweezers for this job, but I’ve also had screws pop off the tweezers and evade me for lengthy periods of time.  This is probably the most difficult step of the entire project.)

STEP 4:

Remove the belt and you should see something like this (except without the speed control).  Each of these pulleys is secured to its shaft by a tiny screw.  (Aren’t you glad you have those nice jeweler’s screwdrivers?)  You may need to remove some green grunge to find the screws, and clean out the slots before attempting to remove them.  Now remove both screws and slide the pulleys off their shafts.

(Reassembly tip:  The pulleys have a built-in washer on one side.  This should be lightly lubricated and installed toward the motor plate.  Not too tight – not too loose.  Install the belt.)

STEP 5:

In Step 5 you discover that the lower pulley is just that – a pulley.  But the upper pulley doubles as a securing device for the mandrel shaft!  Just slide the mandrel/shaft out of its sleeve toward the right side of the machine.  The Eagle cannot be taken apart without doing this first, but how many people would guess to start disassembly with those tiny belt cover screws?  Well now you know…

STEP 6:

In Step 6 we remove the mechanism from its metal base.  This is done by removing the three round-head screws at the ends of the three screwdriver blades shown above.  Alright, you can see only the middle screw in this picture, but you’ll find them.  Now you can remove the metal base from the wooden base and clean them.

STEP 7:

Did you notice that the screw securing the right-hand stanchion is longer than the other two?  It needs to be because it goes clear to the bottom of the wooden base.  In the picture above, the small screw behind the long screw has been removed.  Now you can remove the flat-head screw that secures the stabilizing rod to the right stanchion.

STEP 8:

In the picture above, we’ve removed the right stanchion, and I’ve finger-tightened the flat-head screw back into the stabilizing rod so I won’t lose it.  Now – making sure the carriage lift lever is pushed DOWN, we can slide the carriage right off the mechanism.

(Reassembly tip: It’s sometimes (but not always) necessary to hold down the spring-loaded half-nut in the carriage while sliding it back onto the mechanism.  A jeweler’s screwdriver works well.)

STEP 9:

In Step 9 we’ll remove the left motor plate by first removing the three screws indicated at the ends of each screwdriver.  Now GENTLY pull the left plate away from the shafts and gears.  Take special care of the governor (you know – the one with the red balls).  Support it as you remove the motor plate because don’t want the weight of the governor to bend the tiny pin at each end of the governor shaft.

STEP 10:

With the left motor plate removed, it should look something like this.  (I’m right-handed, so I supported the governor with my left and removed the plate with my right.)

STEP 11:

Remove the feedscrew drive gear by sliding it to the right.  You can pull the feedscrew and cover from the left motor plate, or (if it’s particularly stubborn) leave it in place while you clean the assembly. 

(Reassembly tip:  The feedscrew drive gear/shaft must be installed BEFORE securing the motor plates to the shafts.)

STEP 12:

About all that remains now is to remove the spring barrels.  Use your 7/16” wrench in the usual manner (righty-tighty/lefty-loosey).  If necessary, use needle-nose pliers to secure the mainspring arbor while loosening the nut. 

STEP 13:

In Step 13, we remove the mainsprings from the right motor plate.  This one required exactly one gentle tap with a small hammer.  I’ve had stubborn mainsprings that needed more force, but that’s fortunately the exception.  The spacer/pillar and stabilizer rod thread into each other.  Usually padded vice-grips will unlock these parts – just don’t allow any metal to contact them or they will be scarred.  For pads, I’ve used old rags or even a bit of paper towel.

(Reassembly tip: The mainspring drive gear should be close to the winding key.)

You have disassembled the Eagle Graphophone!

You may now gently use 0000 steel wool, metal polish, and quality lubricants (sewing machine oil or PTFE-infused lubricants).  DO NOT USE 3-In-One oil or other paraffin-based products or you’ll be doing all this again in a few years!

Reassembly is naturally the reverse order of the steps outlined above.  Be particularly aware of the following:

Step 13:  The mainspring drive gear should be close to the winding key.

Step 11: The feedscrew drive gear/shaft must be installed BEFORE securing the motor plates to the shafts.

Step 8:  It’s sometimes (but not always) necessary to hold down the spring-loaded half-nut in the carriage while sliding it onto the mechanism.  A jeweler’s screwdriver works well.

Step 4: The pulleys have a built-in washer on one side.  This should be lightly lubricated and installed toward the motor plate.  Not too tight – not too loose.

Step 3: When reassembling the belt cover to the motor plate, remember that gravity is your friend.  Hold the motor sideways, align the belt cover with the screw holes, and place the screws in the holes, one at a time.  I’ve used tweezers for this job, but I’ve also had screws pop off the tweezers and evade me for lengthy periods of time.  This is probably the most difficult step of the entire project.  Be patient, remain calm, and know that you can prevail where many others have failed.  The dolts.  Your efforts will be rewarded.  Have fun!